Saturday, 7 March 2015

Phulkari  is an embroidery  technique  from the Punjab region  (divided between India and Pakistan)  literally means flower working, which was at one time used as the word for embroidery, but in time the word “Phulkari” became restricted to embroidered shawls and head scarfs.

The word phul means flower and kari means craft, thus its name, literally means floral work or floral craft.  Spun from the charkha this spectacular style of embroidery is patterned on odinis, shawals, kurtis and chunris.

 The main characteristics of Phulkari embroidery are the use of darn stitch on the wrong side of cloth with colored silken thread. Phulkari is brought to the Indian Subcontinent by the migrant Jat people of Central Asia in ancient times. Techniques and patterns of Phulkari were not documented but transmitted by word of mouth. The tradition of Phulkari was associated with the Sikh heritage but was also shared with Hindus & Muslims. Phulkari has it’s origins in the famous love story of Heer & Ranjha (a love tale) by Waris Shah.





It’s present form and popularity goes back to 15th century.  The embroideries were a mere reflection of a woman’s life and every woman had her way of representing. Phulkaris and Baghs were worn by women all over Punjab during marriage festivals and other joyous occasions.  They were embroidered by the women for their own use and use of other family members and were not for sale in the market.  Thus, it was purely a domestic art which not only satisfied their inner urge for creation but brought colour into day-to-day life. In a way, it was true folk art.  Custom had grown to give Phulkaris and Baghs to brides at the time of marriages.   

Some best Phulkaris and Baghs are known to have been made in Hazaraand Chakwal, areas of Northern Punjab in Pakistan.  Some scholars trace the history of phulkari to Iran, where it is known as "Gulkari”. Others are of the opinion that it came from Central Asia along with Jat tribes who migrated to India and settled in Punjab, Haryana and Gujarat.  There is also reference to phulkari in Vedas, Mahabharat, Guru Granth Sahib and folk songs of Punjab.





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