Phulkari
is an embroidery technique
from the Punjab region (divided
between India and Pakistan) literally
means flower working, which was at one time used as the word for embroidery,
but in time the word “Phulkari” became restricted to embroidered shawls and
head scarfs.
The
word phul means flower and kari means craft, thus its name, literally means
floral work or floral craft. Spun from
the charkha this spectacular style of embroidery is patterned on odinis,
shawals, kurtis and chunris.
It’s
present form and popularity goes back to 15th century. The embroideries were a mere reflection of a
woman’s life and every woman had her way of representing. Phulkaris and Baghs
were worn by women all over Punjab during marriage festivals and other joyous
occasions. They were embroidered by the
women for their own use and use of other family members and were not for sale
in the market. Thus, it was purely a
domestic art which not only satisfied their inner urge for creation but brought
colour into day-to-day life. In a way, it was true folk art. Custom had grown to give Phulkaris and Baghs
to brides at the time of marriages.
Some
best Phulkaris and Baghs are known to have been made in Hazaraand Chakwal,
areas of Northern Punjab in Pakistan. Some
scholars trace the history of phulkari to Iran, where it is known as
"Gulkari”. Others are of the opinion that it came from Central Asia along
with Jat tribes who migrated to India and settled in Punjab, Haryana and
Gujarat. There is also reference to
phulkari in Vedas, Mahabharat, Guru Granth Sahib and folk songs of Punjab.
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